Towering over the central Alaska Range, 20,320’, Denali ("The High One") is the highest summit in North America and a challenge to mountaineers from all around the world. Climbing Mt. McKinley is one of the best ways to experience the awesome and unrivaled beauty of Alaska and the Denali region.

The climbing season on Mt. McKinley extends from mid-April throughout the months of May, June and July. In early season, climbers normally experience excellent snow and route conditions, and the mountain is relatively uncrowded. June is perceived as the best compromise between the colder temperatures in spring and warmer conditions of summer. July is considered late season in Alaska, but climbing conditions are great and, as a bonus, there are fewer parties on the route.

There is no environment better than Mt. Rainier for gaining the confidence and required technical skill for the climb of Mt. McKinley. Rainier ’s combination of weather, altitude and terrain closely resemble the environment of Alaska, and presents limitless training possibilities. Our guides are well experience climb Mt. Everest 1-4 times and climbed other 8000 meter mountains in the world.

The West Buttress route was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. A steady and gradual ascent over a period of days is undertaken with emphasis on proper acclimatization for team members. It is not considered a highly technical climb, because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing on the route. Rather, it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali : miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills. In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000’ (35 – 45 + degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender. An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley is truly a major expedition and unforgettable learning experience!

West Buttress Expedition $5, 500 TEAM MEMBER QUALIFICATIONS

Himalayan Sherpa offers some of the best training opportunities because the combination of weather, altitude, and terrain so closely resembles the environs encountered on Mount McKinley. Furthermore, gaining these skills on Mt. Rainier allows our staff to get to know you, and in turn provides you the opportunity to see how HSTE guides conduct themselves on a mountain. This makes for a very strong expedition team in Alaska and is integral to our success guiding on Denali since 1998.

We strongly encourage participants to complete technical training at least three months prior to your scheduled McKinley expedition. When submitting the McKinley Registration form, prospective climbers should list in detail all formal instruction (please indicate the provider, date, length and curriculum) together with all associated outdoor experience on snow & ice, rock, scrambling, backpacking, skiing, snowshoeing, and so forth.

Applicants must have previous formal training and be familiar with all of the following techniques:

• Snow anchors. Specifically the construction, placement,
• Equalization of pickets, ice screws, deadman anchors, and bollards.
• Running Belays
• Belaying Techniques
• Cramponing (ascending, traversing, descending; French technique)
• Roped glacier travel experience
• Rope handling skills
• Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuers perspective)

• Anchor selection
• Pulley methods - C and Z systems
• Site considerations: Location. Weather. Severity of injury. Pack/sled weight